India is a large country but it's going by very fast! I'm not gonna try to keep up with all that I've covered in last few days but will again stick to the highlights or at least the parts that stick out in my mind the most and I'm not even gonna pretend I remember in what order any of this happened. The biggest thing is, of course, the Camel Safari which wasn't really a safari in any term I associate with that word. It was a camel ride out to the duney part of the Thar desert and it was a blast even if it wasn't a real safari. We spent most of the day in the fort city of Jaisalmer which is a pretty cool place all by itself. Remember how much I liked all the walled cities and castles and such throughout the European part of my trek? Jaisalmer is the same kind of place with the added attraction of not having been bombed and rebuilt several times, cows and goats still roam around through the streets like maybe they did way back when and while you can by stuff like SIMS cards and internet access, you still buy it from a merchant who adds up your bill on any scrap of parchment (OK, it's really paper) he can find. So after wandering around Jaisalmer and finishing up any personal stuff like laundry and getting to the PO we packed up a smaller version of our bags for and overnight stay in the desert. First our gear was loaded into a jeep for the ride out to meet the camels. Then grabbing only protection from the sun and water we mounted our desert ships. Mine was named Raj, hindi for King. There was at least one other Raj, a Tiger and a Michael Jackson. I'm guessing the names were only for our benefit. We rode for about 2 1/2 hours. Most of the time, the ground was more like the desert I'm used to seeing in Oregon-hard packed earth and small rocks although there was a lot less vegetation in the Thar than in the high desert of Central and Eastern Oregon. Towards the end of our journey we did come onto the sand dunes that you would normally associate with camel caravans. I have sat atop a horse now and again and as I recall as a horse moves from on walking surface to another an inexperienced rider such as myself doesn't notice much difference in the ride. Not the case with a camel. My recommendation--If you ever have the opportunity to NOT ride a camel on pavement-TAKE IT! The discomfort of a camel saddle is directly proportional to the firmness of the ground beneath said camel. We arrived at Camp Camel well before sundown. The camel drivers took care of our steeds while we explored our home of the evening. There was a low L shaped wall of sorts made from branches and dried weeds or something and there were webbed cots that made up our dormitory. I had brought a set of juggling balls and a collapsible frisbee and pulled those out. The frisbee flopped but the juggling balls were great entertainment. Mind you, I never got around to juggling because once the camels were attended to the camel drivers had nothing to do and simply playing catch was enought for them. After watching the sunset, we gathered around the fire and when it got really dark, the musicians and dancing girls showed up. I kid you not. We didn't get the dance of the seven veils but the was lots of hip movements, footstomping and bells jingling to some nasaly bagpipey like music. We were invited to dance along and everyone including myself got up to shake some booty. No lighting was needed to discern the western people from the locals! One thing about Indian music-their songs are really long!
After the floor show, came dinner prepared by some of the camel drivers, I guess. There might have been a reason why the dinner was served after dark but it all tasted pretty good if maybe a bit sandy. And they prepared it relatively mild and offered the traditional spices on the side for those of us without cast iron stomachs. There was a bit more singing including the Camel Safari song which was an Indian rap wrapup of our days journey and the next days itinerary!
The final event of the evening was not really an event at all but at least equalled anything else that had happened and that was just simple the night sky. With no city lights to wash it out all of the billions and billions of lights were visible. I know. I counted. hee hee hee.
The next morning it turned out we had had visitors in the night and they were still with us. Desert dogs, I have no idea where they came from, were sleeping in our camp. One of them was IN the fire pit. The other one had curled up under one of the cots and in doing so had pulled the blanket off the occupant! They were friendly pooches and hung around while we packed up for the morning camel ride out of the desert. The ride out was only about an hour and a half and we were given the reins of our steeds at the end and permitted to open them up to what they could do! It wasn't exactly the Run for the Roses but. . .
Anything after a camel safari is going to pale in comparison but some of the other things I've been up to: a 19 hour overnight train ride, fort tour, shopping (I've been very bad!) eating (I've been doing pretty good) and just wandering through the cow towns (a new image comes to mind when I hear the term these days.)
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Halfway thru India
I'm at the midway point of my passage thru India. The tour I'm on is actually a three part Circle of India tour of which I'm only doing the first two parts. Some of our group including our group leader are leaving at this point to go their separate ways. They are each now going off to explore more of India and/or other places like Thailand and Singapore on their own. It seems no one just does these kind of tours but use it as a kind of springboard to more adventures. I'm using it as a kind of respite letting someone else make the decisions for while then I'll go back out on my own again.
Last night we had a little farewell dinner for the folks who are leaving the tour. It wasn't at all a tearful event because everyone has so much more to think about. It was probably the most expensive meals I've had on my entire trip and by home standards still only cost about as much as an OK lunch! But it means the New Delhi is expensive by India standards and since I still have two more months ahead, I'd better be careful.
Speaking of Delhi, as far as big cities I've visited in India this one is by far the best. It could be that I just didn't see the more modern areas of Mumbai or the other places and we did get a more extensive walking tour of New Delhi including using their metro which far and away nicer than most of the metros I used throughout Europe. It looked brand new so that may account for most of the niceness about it. The people seemed a bit more friendly in Delhi, too.
Most of the cities and villages we have been visiting are not exactly on the beaten track of western tourist attractions. Delhi, of course is an exception. We visited one of the main downtown shopping districts and as it was lunch time, went to a restaurant. Turns out it was really a bar. It was a tourist attraction but I think it was for Indian tourists or maybe it was the Indian idea of where westerners might want to go to get a touch of home. The place was called Rodeo. The walls were covered with enlarged news clippings of famous western people. People like Billy the Kid, Wyatt Earp and Jesse James. The wait staff all wore cowboy boots, cowboy hats and even six shooters (wooden facsimiles of Colts). The menu boasted tex-mex fare. AND the bar stools were saddles! It was a crack up. We stayed even though the buffet we thought we were going to was not to be seen. They more or less had the idea of tex-mex but I guess some of the ingredients just aren't available so they would substitute the closest thing from an Indian kitchen. I enjoyed the lunch and I will say I have never had quacamole with quite the bite this one did!
Our guide had taken us to the shopping district and then cut us loose. We just sort of naturally grouped or paired off and wandered around. I was with Sheila the Scotborn Utahan. After window shopping, bookstore browsing and the tex-mex lunch we headed to the metro. Sheila has had her arm in a sling since Omkareshwar. That was enough to have about 1/2 the metro coach offering her a seat. Since we were only going a few stops she politely refused. As we approached our stop, I knew that we should start making our way toward the door. As I started making tentative moves to the door, I caught the eye of a young guy and he asked if this way our stop. (I think that's what he asked.) I replied just saying the name of the stop I wanted. (I was happy that I could pronounce it so I used it when I could.) So the young guy took over clearing our path to the door. Of course, we had no idea which exit to take to the street level and once up there nothing looked familiar enough to venture walking off so we hopped into a bicycle rickshaw and for about 75 cents had a nice ride back to the hotel.
One and half days remaining in Delhi and then we are on the road again with a new group and new group leader. "More misadventures?" "Adventures, my friend, adventures!"
Last night we had a little farewell dinner for the folks who are leaving the tour. It wasn't at all a tearful event because everyone has so much more to think about. It was probably the most expensive meals I've had on my entire trip and by home standards still only cost about as much as an OK lunch! But it means the New Delhi is expensive by India standards and since I still have two more months ahead, I'd better be careful.
Speaking of Delhi, as far as big cities I've visited in India this one is by far the best. It could be that I just didn't see the more modern areas of Mumbai or the other places and we did get a more extensive walking tour of New Delhi including using their metro which far and away nicer than most of the metros I used throughout Europe. It looked brand new so that may account for most of the niceness about it. The people seemed a bit more friendly in Delhi, too.
Most of the cities and villages we have been visiting are not exactly on the beaten track of western tourist attractions. Delhi, of course is an exception. We visited one of the main downtown shopping districts and as it was lunch time, went to a restaurant. Turns out it was really a bar. It was a tourist attraction but I think it was for Indian tourists or maybe it was the Indian idea of where westerners might want to go to get a touch of home. The place was called Rodeo. The walls were covered with enlarged news clippings of famous western people. People like Billy the Kid, Wyatt Earp and Jesse James. The wait staff all wore cowboy boots, cowboy hats and even six shooters (wooden facsimiles of Colts). The menu boasted tex-mex fare. AND the bar stools were saddles! It was a crack up. We stayed even though the buffet we thought we were going to was not to be seen. They more or less had the idea of tex-mex but I guess some of the ingredients just aren't available so they would substitute the closest thing from an Indian kitchen. I enjoyed the lunch and I will say I have never had quacamole with quite the bite this one did!
Our guide had taken us to the shopping district and then cut us loose. We just sort of naturally grouped or paired off and wandered around. I was with Sheila the Scotborn Utahan. After window shopping, bookstore browsing and the tex-mex lunch we headed to the metro. Sheila has had her arm in a sling since Omkareshwar. That was enough to have about 1/2 the metro coach offering her a seat. Since we were only going a few stops she politely refused. As we approached our stop, I knew that we should start making our way toward the door. As I started making tentative moves to the door, I caught the eye of a young guy and he asked if this way our stop. (I think that's what he asked.) I replied just saying the name of the stop I wanted. (I was happy that I could pronounce it so I used it when I could.) So the young guy took over clearing our path to the door. Of course, we had no idea which exit to take to the street level and once up there nothing looked familiar enough to venture walking off so we hopped into a bicycle rickshaw and for about 75 cents had a nice ride back to the hotel.
One and half days remaining in Delhi and then we are on the road again with a new group and new group leader. "More misadventures?" "Adventures, my friend, adventures!"
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Rupees, Chocolate
I believe Rupees and chocolate are the first words some of the youngsters here learn. They are certainly the words they practice most often, at least by some. Hello and where are you from are the next most common phrases. One member of our group has a certain rock star air about him as he is the tallest, blondest and most blue eyed member of our group and attracts the most attention.
We are now in the town of Orchha and this has a bit of a touristy feel to it. We have also seen more westerners here than in any other place we have visited. The town is very small, though. Population is probably in the few hundreds but there are quite a few temples, palaces and one fort close by which brings folks from all over though not in the numbers of the tourist sites in the west. Today's itinerary included a tour of the fort which has four palaces in it, a temple from the 17th century and a cooking class. Much like the paella cooking class in Barcelona (was that a lifetime ago?), it was more a cooking demonstration and ended with a home cooked meal which we all shared. Wow! I have only been dabbling in tasting Indian fare because of periodic bouts of mild intestinal distress but after sampling Vandana's cooking, I don't think I will be able to enjoy the food from any Indian restaurant as much as I did hers! She gave us the recipes as she prepared the various dishes that go into an Indian thali. A thali is standard Indian meal consisting of four different things plus a 'bread'. We had vegetable palua, aloo palak, dal, rice and chapati (the bread). The list of spices used in just one of these dishes was longer than the total ingredients list of anything else I've ever seem prepared (mild exaggeration only). Oh, and I forgot-we started the meal off with the winter chai tea. A very grand day even with the winter temperature somewhere in the low 60s F ;-)
Our transportation varies from day to day depending on how far and where we're going. We've been on trains, local buses, motorized rickshaws called tuk-tuks, taxis and private taxis that are usually Land Rovers. We did have one private bus, too. The roads are better in some parts of the country than in others and are shared with mostly trucks and motorcycles. I have seen very few private vehicles. They drive on the left side like in England although it really seems to be arbitrary. Horns are used constantly but not instead of brakes as some folks would have you believe. The horn is not used in angry, alarm or fear and I've never heard it followed by the horrid metal crunching like I do back home. Here the horn is simply a notice to those around you that "I'm here and I'm passing you" or "I'm moving into that lane with you" or "Please, cow, be so kind as to step out of my path thankyouverymuch". Do you want to cross a busy street? Don't wait for a break in traffic because they don't happen. Any space between cars will fill instantly with tuk-tuks, motorcycles or bicycles. To cross the street you just step out and do the weave. One thing about the traffic in both the cities and out on the highways, no one seems to be speeding and that I think is the saving grace. The cars are kinds of underpowered so the phrase 'speed kills' doesn't apply to the roadways here.
I really like the small towns waaay more than the cities here so far. Of course I feel that way about all the places I have visited so that's no surprise. The nicest thinkgs about the little places are that the shop keepers are not quite as persistent, the beggars are fewer, the bad smells are not present and there's more opportunity to interact with the locals who are very friendly.
Tomorrow is a visit to a sort of co-op where they make paper products. I could be in souvenier trouble there. We will end the day with a night train to Delhi. I did a few night trains in Europe. I think this will be quite different!
We are now in the town of Orchha and this has a bit of a touristy feel to it. We have also seen more westerners here than in any other place we have visited. The town is very small, though. Population is probably in the few hundreds but there are quite a few temples, palaces and one fort close by which brings folks from all over though not in the numbers of the tourist sites in the west. Today's itinerary included a tour of the fort which has four palaces in it, a temple from the 17th century and a cooking class. Much like the paella cooking class in Barcelona (was that a lifetime ago?), it was more a cooking demonstration and ended with a home cooked meal which we all shared. Wow! I have only been dabbling in tasting Indian fare because of periodic bouts of mild intestinal distress but after sampling Vandana's cooking, I don't think I will be able to enjoy the food from any Indian restaurant as much as I did hers! She gave us the recipes as she prepared the various dishes that go into an Indian thali. A thali is standard Indian meal consisting of four different things plus a 'bread'. We had vegetable palua, aloo palak, dal, rice and chapati (the bread). The list of spices used in just one of these dishes was longer than the total ingredients list of anything else I've ever seem prepared (mild exaggeration only). Oh, and I forgot-we started the meal off with the winter chai tea. A very grand day even with the winter temperature somewhere in the low 60s F ;-)
Our transportation varies from day to day depending on how far and where we're going. We've been on trains, local buses, motorized rickshaws called tuk-tuks, taxis and private taxis that are usually Land Rovers. We did have one private bus, too. The roads are better in some parts of the country than in others and are shared with mostly trucks and motorcycles. I have seen very few private vehicles. They drive on the left side like in England although it really seems to be arbitrary. Horns are used constantly but not instead of brakes as some folks would have you believe. The horn is not used in angry, alarm or fear and I've never heard it followed by the horrid metal crunching like I do back home. Here the horn is simply a notice to those around you that "I'm here and I'm passing you" or "I'm moving into that lane with you" or "Please, cow, be so kind as to step out of my path thankyouverymuch". Do you want to cross a busy street? Don't wait for a break in traffic because they don't happen. Any space between cars will fill instantly with tuk-tuks, motorcycles or bicycles. To cross the street you just step out and do the weave. One thing about the traffic in both the cities and out on the highways, no one seems to be speeding and that I think is the saving grace. The cars are kinds of underpowered so the phrase 'speed kills' doesn't apply to the roadways here.
I really like the small towns waaay more than the cities here so far. Of course I feel that way about all the places I have visited so that's no surprise. The nicest thinkgs about the little places are that the shop keepers are not quite as persistent, the beggars are fewer, the bad smells are not present and there's more opportunity to interact with the locals who are very friendly.
Tomorrow is a visit to a sort of co-op where they make paper products. I could be in souvenier trouble there. We will end the day with a night train to Delhi. I did a few night trains in Europe. I think this will be quite different!
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Where to begin?
There's no way I'm going to be able to catch up on all that's come to pass since I last blogged. I'll try to hit the highlights but I haven't even been taking notes cuz it's a bit overwhelming.
I'm still dealing with the stomach upset but it comes and goes and mostly goes so I'm hanging in there. What really sucks about this whole food thing is that for awhile I wasn't really eating and it's not fair that I should not be getting to eat any of the food but I don't appear to be losing any weight either. That ain't right! I have been introduced to a great drink call 'lassi' and I take the sweet version of it at least once a day. That seems to be the greatest thing for the stomach bug. The lassi is a kind of yogurt drink available at all meal times.
So we left Mumbai (me and my queasy stomach) by train. This was a bit better train ride than the one to the Kanheri caves because we had assigned seats although we had to wake up the people who were sleeping in them when we got on the train. Our first stop was Aurangabad and a visit to some more caves like the Kanheri ones I had seen but also a fort with a series of about 9 different defences including a maze of passages filled with bats and a self sacrificing camel impaled on the door. From there we went to an island temple in Omkareshwar. We did a mini punjab, received the colored dot and were sprayed with holy water. I don't think I need to do that again. The boat ride around the island was interesting, though. None of the gates had been opened on the dam just up river so we had to portage several times while the captain and his two mates (one of the was all of 12 years old maybe) maneuvered the boat through the shallows. We nearly lost one of our group who fell even before getting into the boat. Subsequent medical attention revealed a fracture of the wrist.
From Omkareshwar we traveled by car to Mandu which had been my favorite place so far. A wee small resort (loose term by western standards) and rented bicycles to several archeological sites in the area-The ship palace built between two lakes and with its reflection in the lake looked like a ship; a mosque/tomb and the maharina's palace. The palace provided a great viewpoint but the days are all hazy so the views have not been too great so far. We are traveling north so the evenings are getting cooler. I may have to find something besides a T-shirt to wear soon. :-)
From Mandu we went to Bhopal for an overnight stay and all agreed that that was one night too long. From there we stayed at yet another resort (closer to the western definition) in Sanchi near some of the great Stupas of India. These are shrines to Buddha and exhibit some of the finest examples of Buddhist art. The stupas are also reliquaries of some of the greatest Buddha followers. The resort has a pool and fitness club and a few of us availed ourselves of those facilities. It was mostly good except they don't have the concept of the hottub down too well just yet.
Today we arrived by train and rickshaw in Orchha where tomorrow we will visit a fort, some temples have a cooking class and maybe go to a papermaking cooperative kind of place.
I wish I had time to give more details about the food, the group, the rooms and the modes of travel but I feel lucky to be able to go online and say Hey, I'll alive and mostly well. Oh, we did have an inauguration party last night!
I'm still dealing with the stomach upset but it comes and goes and mostly goes so I'm hanging in there. What really sucks about this whole food thing is that for awhile I wasn't really eating and it's not fair that I should not be getting to eat any of the food but I don't appear to be losing any weight either. That ain't right! I have been introduced to a great drink call 'lassi' and I take the sweet version of it at least once a day. That seems to be the greatest thing for the stomach bug. The lassi is a kind of yogurt drink available at all meal times.
So we left Mumbai (me and my queasy stomach) by train. This was a bit better train ride than the one to the Kanheri caves because we had assigned seats although we had to wake up the people who were sleeping in them when we got on the train. Our first stop was Aurangabad and a visit to some more caves like the Kanheri ones I had seen but also a fort with a series of about 9 different defences including a maze of passages filled with bats and a self sacrificing camel impaled on the door. From there we went to an island temple in Omkareshwar. We did a mini punjab, received the colored dot and were sprayed with holy water. I don't think I need to do that again. The boat ride around the island was interesting, though. None of the gates had been opened on the dam just up river so we had to portage several times while the captain and his two mates (one of the was all of 12 years old maybe) maneuvered the boat through the shallows. We nearly lost one of our group who fell even before getting into the boat. Subsequent medical attention revealed a fracture of the wrist.
From Omkareshwar we traveled by car to Mandu which had been my favorite place so far. A wee small resort (loose term by western standards) and rented bicycles to several archeological sites in the area-The ship palace built between two lakes and with its reflection in the lake looked like a ship; a mosque/tomb and the maharina's palace. The palace provided a great viewpoint but the days are all hazy so the views have not been too great so far. We are traveling north so the evenings are getting cooler. I may have to find something besides a T-shirt to wear soon. :-)
From Mandu we went to Bhopal for an overnight stay and all agreed that that was one night too long. From there we stayed at yet another resort (closer to the western definition) in Sanchi near some of the great Stupas of India. These are shrines to Buddha and exhibit some of the finest examples of Buddhist art. The stupas are also reliquaries of some of the greatest Buddha followers. The resort has a pool and fitness club and a few of us availed ourselves of those facilities. It was mostly good except they don't have the concept of the hottub down too well just yet.
Today we arrived by train and rickshaw in Orchha where tomorrow we will visit a fort, some temples have a cooking class and maybe go to a papermaking cooperative kind of place.
I wish I had time to give more details about the food, the group, the rooms and the modes of travel but I feel lucky to be able to go online and say Hey, I'll alive and mostly well. Oh, we did have an inauguration party last night!
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
I think it was something I et.
I forgot to mention the police raid of my hotel room last week but I'll get to that later on. In the meantime, I don't think I can fully cover the last day or two (is that all it's been?) because I think it was something I et. Yes, I fell ill in Indian. I know. It's shocking and practically unheard of (NOT) to experience intestinal distress but somehow I managed to do so. I think it might have started during Friday evening. I just wasn't particularly hungry because of the heat and I didn't have dinner. Saturday I arranged a tour to some local caves and I wasn't feeling all too great that moring but I figured it was cuz I hadn't eaten much the day before. I order up some dry toast, juice and a bottle of water for the days excursion. The toast was slathered, the juice was Indian tea and the water never showed up. On a good note, I started my day. I met the guide (picking up a bottle of h20 along the way) and we hopped the local train. Quite a different experience that the European trains. Here it's not necessary to wait for the train to actually stop before you get on or off. In fact the longer you wait to do either makes it more difficult so don't be annoyed by the person behind you who knows the ropes and wished you did, too! From the train to a bus to the entrance to the park. A short stroll thru, a visit to the nature center and then back to the park entrance to catch another bus up to the caves. These are not wild caves but are temples and monasteries carved out of the rock by monks in the early parts of the first millenium AD. The entire rock outcrop is exposed and this, I think, added to my rumbling stomach-a touch of heat stroke or something similar. After I got back to the hotel I had the headache, the chills and a bit of nausea. I tried to eat a bit of dinner and got about half way thru before I decided it would be better not to finish. For most of the next two days (Sunday and Monday) I was feeling like crap and couldn't even think about eating. What a lousy way to begin a tour! I was actually kind of afraid that if I was not up to snuff they might not let me go but at the tour group meeting on Sunday evening, there was another person who was not up to scratch and I overheard his discussion with the tour leader. They have ways of making allowances for such situations and I decided to follow his lead which was basically 'wait and see' kind of think. The next day we departed Mumbai by way of long distance train which is closer to the European trains. We even had assigned seats. I still hadn't anything to eat that stayed where is was supposed to but I feel fortunate (if you can call it that) that my problem was that things wouldn't stay down and not that they rushed through if you catch my meaning. (Have I mentioned that they don't use TP here in Indian and therefore it is not supplied in the hotels. It can be purchased however.) Well, I survive the train trip on water (I don't want to risk dehydration and water sits OK) and even tried a milk like drink. It was cold and it seemed to sit well so I had another. Ooops, I was rushing things. We arrived at our new local, Aurangabad, unloaded our gear and ventured off to. . .some caves :-( These were only similar to the Kanhers caves in that they had been carved by man. They were older and more elaborate AND mildly nestled in some shady parts. Here also we had a guide. He was on of the first Indians whose accent was such that I could understand him however he chose to stand in the center of the caverns, asked us to site along the perimeters and shouted out the historical facts which echoed throughout the rooms. So what can I tell you about the caves? They were older than the other ones, more elaborate and shaded! They were pretty cool though, both aesthetically and temperaturely.
Back at the hotel we had time to freshen up and then off to dinner. . .not me. Still not up to snuff. I asked my roomie (Sheila, Scotborn Utahan) to pick up some bananas if it was convenient to do so on her way back from dinner. Bless her heart, she returned with a bunch. I tentively had one and glory be it stayed put. I didn't want to rush things and there were still some terrible stomach cramps but I had solid food! This morning I followed up with cornflakes and for lunch I had some soup. Tonight, "I'm doing waffles!" No, not really but a nickle to the person who can identify the quote. I am going to dinner with the group tonight but will keep it mild. In fact our tour leader has suggested that we do that anyway and he is taking us to places he knows and trusts for westerners as most of us are, I think. Australians westerners?
I don't know how often I will have internet access from this point on because we are going into some hinterlands and such for much of this trip. Our group is 10-three Aussies, three Americans, 1 Brit, 2 Danes and 1 Canadian stands alone. I gotta go, I just got booted off.
Back at the hotel we had time to freshen up and then off to dinner. . .not me. Still not up to snuff. I asked my roomie (Sheila, Scotborn Utahan) to pick up some bananas if it was convenient to do so on her way back from dinner. Bless her heart, she returned with a bunch. I tentively had one and glory be it stayed put. I didn't want to rush things and there were still some terrible stomach cramps but I had solid food! This morning I followed up with cornflakes and for lunch I had some soup. Tonight, "I'm doing waffles!" No, not really but a nickle to the person who can identify the quote. I am going to dinner with the group tonight but will keep it mild. In fact our tour leader has suggested that we do that anyway and he is taking us to places he knows and trusts for westerners as most of us are, I think. Australians westerners?
I don't know how often I will have internet access from this point on because we are going into some hinterlands and such for much of this trip. Our group is 10-three Aussies, three Americans, 1 Brit, 2 Danes and 1 Canadian stands alone. I gotta go, I just got booted off.
Friday, January 9, 2009
It's HOT here
Before I get into today's non events here's a few things that I've just not put anywhere else or forgot about or are just general observations. I did mention the difference between Mumbai and other cities is the number of people. And here's the thing about all these people--NOBODY IS WEARING BLACK. The city has color everywhere. It is the most spectacular thing to see. It was so blah walking in all those supposedly glamourous places in Europe and see nothing but black and shades of black on all the people and in all the store windows and that was even during Christmas! Come on, fashion world, get over it all ready! Colors are cool, fun, natural and just darn purty.
Uh, excuse me while I step down off my soap box.
A month or so before I came here to India, there was an incident that caused me a bit of hesitation about this leg of my journey. After some research and discussion, I decided to leave my itinerary as it was and now here I am. I don't know if the number of uniformed people was at this level prior to that incident or not but I gotta say, considering the number of security folks in evidence, I feel quite safe here. The biggest threat to me is me and my inability to bargain. There are security people in the pedestrian subways, outside the movie theaters and all the hotels. OK, they look like doormen but even the little place I'm staying out has folks outside the lobby and that place, if it upgraded a little bit could be a Motel 6.
Speaking of movie theaters. I went to the movies late yesterday afternoon. It cost 400 rupees. That's about 8 bucks. About what I's pay at home for the evening show. But wait, there's more. That particular showing of Australia was 150 Rupees more than the evening show because the showing I went to was in the lounge. You start out in a small but well appointed bar where you have your choice of beverages and, for lack of a better term, tapas. Then you are shown to your assigned seat which is a barkalounger with electric footrest and recliner adjustments and a blanket. I made the mistake of getting all settled down and snug in my big comfy chair after the hostess took my drink order (a Big Orange). Just as the lights went down everyone stood up. I followed suit. (My herding instinct makes sheep look like independent thinkers). The Indian national anthem played. I was moved. The anthem ended, we took out seats, the movie started, our drinks were delivered and I snuggled back in to my seat. Towards what I thought was the end of the movie, it appeared the film broke. The lights came up and a few people got up and went out. I figured someone was going to tell management. Nope. It was intermission. More drink orders were taken and then the lights went down and the film resumed. I gotta say, they do good cinema here.
Today I was out and about with a tour guide because I wasn't really seeing much on my own and really didn't see that much to day but did arrange a tour for tomorrow to some caves. Today, I visited the Gateway of India which isn't as impressive as I hoped but that's because like a lot of things I saw in Europe, it is surrounded by scaffolding and draped for repairs and security reasons. We did visit some buildings from the British Time which is pretty much most of the buildings.
This time on my own in Mumbai, I'm just more or less existing in the city because starting on Sunday it's going to get a bit more intense as we begin a 36 day journey across the subcontinent. During that time, I'll be getting the culture classes and history lessons and so on. Tomorrow's visit to the caves is just recreational.
You've noticed that I haven't mentioned the food other than the McD's. I've been taking most of my meals at the hotel which has really inexpensive room service and it's local fare, too. I'm sticking to the chicken dishes and so far haven't encountered anything that I haven't seen before. There's an Indian place at home that I've gone to a couple of times and the food here is just like that for the most part. I haven't yet tried any of the street vendors but that may be and option as the tour begins. Oh, one thing I kept forgetting to mention during my time in Europe was a warning to those of you who enjoy Mt. Dew. If you travel to Europe, bring your own. I never saw it anywhere. Pepsi's there, but no Dew. Mumbai has the Dew! Yes, I've traveled 1/2 way around the world and I'm talking about a soft drink. I just think it's funny sometimes to see something so familiar in such non familiar settings because those things are always tucked in with the local bottles and cans.
Uh, excuse me while I step down off my soap box.
A month or so before I came here to India, there was an incident that caused me a bit of hesitation about this leg of my journey. After some research and discussion, I decided to leave my itinerary as it was and now here I am. I don't know if the number of uniformed people was at this level prior to that incident or not but I gotta say, considering the number of security folks in evidence, I feel quite safe here. The biggest threat to me is me and my inability to bargain. There are security people in the pedestrian subways, outside the movie theaters and all the hotels. OK, they look like doormen but even the little place I'm staying out has folks outside the lobby and that place, if it upgraded a little bit could be a Motel 6.
Speaking of movie theaters. I went to the movies late yesterday afternoon. It cost 400 rupees. That's about 8 bucks. About what I's pay at home for the evening show. But wait, there's more. That particular showing of Australia was 150 Rupees more than the evening show because the showing I went to was in the lounge. You start out in a small but well appointed bar where you have your choice of beverages and, for lack of a better term, tapas. Then you are shown to your assigned seat which is a barkalounger with electric footrest and recliner adjustments and a blanket. I made the mistake of getting all settled down and snug in my big comfy chair after the hostess took my drink order (a Big Orange). Just as the lights went down everyone stood up. I followed suit. (My herding instinct makes sheep look like independent thinkers). The Indian national anthem played. I was moved. The anthem ended, we took out seats, the movie started, our drinks were delivered and I snuggled back in to my seat. Towards what I thought was the end of the movie, it appeared the film broke. The lights came up and a few people got up and went out. I figured someone was going to tell management. Nope. It was intermission. More drink orders were taken and then the lights went down and the film resumed. I gotta say, they do good cinema here.
Today I was out and about with a tour guide because I wasn't really seeing much on my own and really didn't see that much to day but did arrange a tour for tomorrow to some caves. Today, I visited the Gateway of India which isn't as impressive as I hoped but that's because like a lot of things I saw in Europe, it is surrounded by scaffolding and draped for repairs and security reasons. We did visit some buildings from the British Time which is pretty much most of the buildings.
This time on my own in Mumbai, I'm just more or less existing in the city because starting on Sunday it's going to get a bit more intense as we begin a 36 day journey across the subcontinent. During that time, I'll be getting the culture classes and history lessons and so on. Tomorrow's visit to the caves is just recreational.
You've noticed that I haven't mentioned the food other than the McD's. I've been taking most of my meals at the hotel which has really inexpensive room service and it's local fare, too. I'm sticking to the chicken dishes and so far haven't encountered anything that I haven't seen before. There's an Indian place at home that I've gone to a couple of times and the food here is just like that for the most part. I haven't yet tried any of the street vendors but that may be and option as the tour begins. Oh, one thing I kept forgetting to mention during my time in Europe was a warning to those of you who enjoy Mt. Dew. If you travel to Europe, bring your own. I never saw it anywhere. Pepsi's there, but no Dew. Mumbai has the Dew! Yes, I've traveled 1/2 way around the world and I'm talking about a soft drink. I just think it's funny sometimes to see something so familiar in such non familiar settings because those things are always tucked in with the local bottles and cans.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Now in Inja's sunny clime. . .
(Who knows the poem?) Day one in Mumbai. . .I sort of slept thru it. :-( I have several reasons. I had been more or less awake for the previous 36 hours and had had only an on board meal with the last 18 or so. And I was a working up the chutzpah to venture out. My research on India and Mumbai consisted of an article/interview with a filmmaker and the few comments heard from folks to whom I had mentioned that I was going there. The comments were mostly in the area of "Oh wow!" with a variety of emotions attached to that-jubilation, incredulity, excitement, astonishment, concern (mild fear). There were a few other comments I'd read or heard that were not real favorable and that may have added to my trepidation. I still had no map or guide of any kind so had I gone out, I wouldn't know where to go and the room was tiny but way cooler than the outside temp.
So wallowed the first day but was over it by day two. Day two, I was out the door. First order, get ride of my euros. I asked at desk if there was an foreign exchange in the area and I gotta say my trepidations were not totally without merit. We were both speaking English but I have no idea what the information was that I was given. It could be that the English I was speaking was as difficult to understand as the English I was hearing. By the time I finished asking for info, I had just a vague idea that what I was looking for was somewhere out the door of the hotel and probably off to the left somewhere. So that's where I headed. I headed out walking with a determined stride as if I knew where I was going, occassionally peering into store fronts. I found a city map that way and the clerk was able to show me the general area of where I was on that map. I continued my wanderings and came to a bank. Upon entering I immediately found the foreign exchange teller but as I had no account with the bank, I wasn't able to sell them my Euros but I did find out where the money exchange place was. "10 minutes by cab" said the teller. Hmm...OK, let's hope the driver knows the area a bit better than the first guy. I've got to get better at the bargaining business 'cuz I'm making it harder for all those who follow. My 10 minute cab ride (directly to the place) cost more than 1/2 of the ride from the airport which even if it had been direct was a lot longer than this day's ride.
Ya know those other unfavorable comments I mentioned? So far, totally unfounded. The major difference I see walking around in Mumbai from walking around any of the other cities I have visited is that there are a LOT more people.
Rupee's in hand, I stepped out to attempt task two-find a cyber cafe. Well, we know how that worked out, huh? In fact, that was such a goody that I'm at the same place now and I have my own account. My third task was getting a map and serendipity had taken care of that. I sort of felt that I had done pretty good for the day because in addition to taking care of some business I also located a McDonald's which I might stop in today if only out of curiosity. I thought cows were sacred here so I'm wondering just what be in the Big Mac because the 'two all beef patties' just don't sound right, ya know? I also found the cinema. It's at the end of the block from the hotel so not a real hard find. Where my hotel is located is not an area tourists are likely to venture so all the stores and shops are where the regular folk shop for toothpaste, electrical tape, printer cartridges, cranberries etc. Where the money exchange is more of a shopping district. Window shopping in both places is equally interesting and I'm gonna have to work hard at not going beyond the windows. I don't want to test the theory that things are way less expensive here than elsewhere because my bargaining abilities won't get me a great savings and I'm all ready overflowing my pack. In fact, I may be abandoning some stuff here (weather gear) and hope I don't need it for spring time in Japan.
Now is Day three and I'm still getting my India legs. The short cab ride yesterday is actually a walkable distance so I strolled here today. Of course I took the wrong street to get here. I thought I knew where I was going but now I have a map so I easily set myself right. However, my walk took me through a street market that I totally missed from the cab. If I can't find the other street I took to walk home yesterday, my avoidance of spending is going to be taxed beyond my limits. I had not main objective today, just to get more comfortable and explore a few more blocks and perhaps check out the massive train station (It is a tourist attraction) not too far from here. So that's what I'm gonna go do now, explore a bit more Bombay (I've been trying to stick to calling it Mumbai but I've heard locals call it Bombay, too).
So wallowed the first day but was over it by day two. Day two, I was out the door. First order, get ride of my euros. I asked at desk if there was an foreign exchange in the area and I gotta say my trepidations were not totally without merit. We were both speaking English but I have no idea what the information was that I was given. It could be that the English I was speaking was as difficult to understand as the English I was hearing. By the time I finished asking for info, I had just a vague idea that what I was looking for was somewhere out the door of the hotel and probably off to the left somewhere. So that's where I headed. I headed out walking with a determined stride as if I knew where I was going, occassionally peering into store fronts. I found a city map that way and the clerk was able to show me the general area of where I was on that map. I continued my wanderings and came to a bank. Upon entering I immediately found the foreign exchange teller but as I had no account with the bank, I wasn't able to sell them my Euros but I did find out where the money exchange place was. "10 minutes by cab" said the teller. Hmm...OK, let's hope the driver knows the area a bit better than the first guy. I've got to get better at the bargaining business 'cuz I'm making it harder for all those who follow. My 10 minute cab ride (directly to the place) cost more than 1/2 of the ride from the airport which even if it had been direct was a lot longer than this day's ride.
Ya know those other unfavorable comments I mentioned? So far, totally unfounded. The major difference I see walking around in Mumbai from walking around any of the other cities I have visited is that there are a LOT more people.
Rupee's in hand, I stepped out to attempt task two-find a cyber cafe. Well, we know how that worked out, huh? In fact, that was such a goody that I'm at the same place now and I have my own account. My third task was getting a map and serendipity had taken care of that. I sort of felt that I had done pretty good for the day because in addition to taking care of some business I also located a McDonald's which I might stop in today if only out of curiosity. I thought cows were sacred here so I'm wondering just what be in the Big Mac because the 'two all beef patties' just don't sound right, ya know? I also found the cinema. It's at the end of the block from the hotel so not a real hard find. Where my hotel is located is not an area tourists are likely to venture so all the stores and shops are where the regular folk shop for toothpaste, electrical tape, printer cartridges, cranberries etc. Where the money exchange is more of a shopping district. Window shopping in both places is equally interesting and I'm gonna have to work hard at not going beyond the windows. I don't want to test the theory that things are way less expensive here than elsewhere because my bargaining abilities won't get me a great savings and I'm all ready overflowing my pack. In fact, I may be abandoning some stuff here (weather gear) and hope I don't need it for spring time in Japan.
Now is Day three and I'm still getting my India legs. The short cab ride yesterday is actually a walkable distance so I strolled here today. Of course I took the wrong street to get here. I thought I knew where I was going but now I have a map so I easily set myself right. However, my walk took me through a street market that I totally missed from the cab. If I can't find the other street I took to walk home yesterday, my avoidance of spending is going to be taxed beyond my limits. I had not main objective today, just to get more comfortable and explore a few more blocks and perhaps check out the massive train station (It is a tourist attraction) not too far from here. So that's what I'm gonna go do now, explore a bit more Bombay (I've been trying to stick to calling it Mumbai but I've heard locals call it Bombay, too).
Arrivederci, Roma!
My departure from Italy didn't happen at all like I had planned, hoped or expected. My last day started out well there as I did and abbreviated trek to some of the film sites for Roman Holiday. These sites coincided with some places I wanted to visit anyway so that worked out well although everything was rather spread out. Rome has only two underground lines so that's easy enough to figure out and at only 1 Euro a pop, quite the bargain so I covered the ground pretty easily. So easy in fact that it was only mid afternoon when I had completed that mission so I decided to hop on the sightseeing bus and just ride around listening to the history until we were nearest my hostel. I hopped on in the middle of the tour route and just a half hour later we were at the beginning of the route. We had to wait there for the next scheduled departure time but it was at a busy place so people watching from the comfort of a heated bus was OK. At last we started off and we rapidly zipped our way out into the late afternoon of the last Sunday of the holiday weekend in rush hour Rome. 2 hours later I arrived at the stop I wanted. The bus arrived just moments later but was packed to overflowing so I walked the last half mile almost keeping up with the bus and actually beating the second bus if I had bother to wait for it. Back at the hostel, my plan had been to do my final Roman update, pack up, catch few hours sleep before the cab to the airport. That didn't work out either because there internet was down at the hostel! I went up and packed and readied myself for the 3am taxi and tried to sleep but couldn't because I have no alarma and I was afraid I'd miss the taxi. Eventually I got to the airport, early like you're supposed to but too early and they don't make those places comfy for hanging out in. All my flights were on time and uneventful, the best way to fly. I arrived in Mumbai with no local currency, no guide book, no map. Customs was quick and totally painless, baggage claim was the same. While waiting for my bag I had asked where the ATM machine was. None in the airport. Hmmmm. . . I had planned to get a few rupees out in order to pay for my taxi to my hotel. Now what? Oh, lookee there! There are money exchange desks open right there after baggage claim. I did a quick exchange and prepared myself for what I thought was going to be my first bargaining exercise and course in dealing with crowds of people wanting me to use their service. Never happened. There was a booth set up where you prepay for your cab. They issue you a little slip with a cab number. You go out to the large cab parking lot and locate the cab with your number on it. Hand the slip to the driver and he takes you to your destination. In theory. I had my slip, found my driver (with the help of a young man I was supposed to have tipped but I only had 100 rupee notes and he didn't look as though he was prepared to give change). Then the adventure began. He didn't know where the hotel was. I had been told that in London any cab driver can tell you the exact route he will take to anyplace you say in London. Too bad that was not one of the skills the English left here. The location of my hotel was a debate before we left and as it turns out, was still debateable once we did leave. We drove around enough the I actually began recogizing places! Finally we landed, after midnight in front of the hotel that appeared to be closed. However a doorman appeared from who knows where and raised a large garage door to revel the hotel front. While I am staying in an actual hotel here and not a hostel, the caliber of the venue is about the same. That is to say it ain't the Four Seasons. But it's home for the next few days until I meet the tour group and tomorrow, I'll try to find this internet place again and tell you all about my first day in Mumbai.
Saturday, January 3, 2009
Rome wasn't built in a day. . .
but I visited most of it in a day. OK, not most of it but most of what I planned to see. Half of what I wanted to see will be closed tomorrow so I had to see that today but it didn't take as long as I thought it would so I visited most of tomorrow's schedule as well. It's all stuff you've heard of-St. Peter's Basilica [I didn't bet to climbed the dome :-( ], the Sistine Chapel, Trevi Fountain, Forum, Collosseum, Pantheon. There's still quite a bit of the city left to see and it's kind of spread out so tomorrow will be busy as well. And the weather is trying to cooperate. It was raining when I started out but there wasn't a lot of umph behind it and it had mostly given up by late afternoon.
I've met lots of folks in my travels but I didn't think I'd ever meet the same person twice. Once of my roommates from Florence is staying at the hostel here as well. I think she might have felt slighted that I didn't remember her right away and I would feel bad about that except I never remember people and one this trip there are just sooo many new faces and places, I can't tell any of the players without a program! I have to look at my notes and pictures to remind me which hostel was where!
Well, my blog here is a skimpy because I'm sort of preoccupied with thoughts of what's ahead-INDIA. And, I'm gonna be on my own in Mumbai for the first 5 days. The excitement level is ratcheting up at a rapid pace.
I've met lots of folks in my travels but I didn't think I'd ever meet the same person twice. Once of my roommates from Florence is staying at the hostel here as well. I think she might have felt slighted that I didn't remember her right away and I would feel bad about that except I never remember people and one this trip there are just sooo many new faces and places, I can't tell any of the players without a program! I have to look at my notes and pictures to remind me which hostel was where!
Well, my blog here is a skimpy because I'm sort of preoccupied with thoughts of what's ahead-INDIA. And, I'm gonna be on my own in Mumbai for the first 5 days. The excitement level is ratcheting up at a rapid pace.
Friday, January 2, 2009
When in Rome. . .
The not so good weather has caught up with me &/or following me. I had never planned to go into the city (Perugia) while I was in the area. That's why I chose to stay at the hostel called Perugia Farmhouse. The description said it was away from the crowds of the city, it was relaxing and quiet etc., and it was all that, more or less. The group of young Italians enjoyed themselves during their holiday stay. Anyway, my plan had always been to just walk in the countryside on New Year's Day because any place I would want to visit in the city would be closed anyway. My walk in the country wasn't so country except for the gravel lane to and from the hostel itself and it rained the whole time which was only about an hour. I got back before I started getting cold. The rest of the day was spent reading and chatting with some of the other hostelers and a bit of juggling.
This morning it looked as though the weather was going to cooperate again. It was sunny and blue skies. There was just an edge of ice in the puddles and the fields looked all silvery with the frost as I walked to the bus stop. I was able to get a direct train to Rome. Not long into the 3 hour ride, I nodded off. When I woke up it was all cloudy and stuff and that turned to rain as I arrived in Rome and started making my way to the hostel. It's been raining every since so it looks like the notsogood weather is following me. I didn't get in until too late in the day (by my scheduling) to attempt any tourism so I'm crossing my fingers that this is a one day rain here like it was in Perugia and my good weather days will return but considering the kind of days I've had so far, I don't suppose I can be too upset about it if it isn't better tomorrow.
This morning it looked as though the weather was going to cooperate again. It was sunny and blue skies. There was just an edge of ice in the puddles and the fields looked all silvery with the frost as I walked to the bus stop. I was able to get a direct train to Rome. Not long into the 3 hour ride, I nodded off. When I woke up it was all cloudy and stuff and that turned to rain as I arrived in Rome and started making my way to the hostel. It's been raining every since so it looks like the notsogood weather is following me. I didn't get in until too late in the day (by my scheduling) to attempt any tourism so I'm crossing my fingers that this is a one day rain here like it was in Perugia and my good weather days will return but considering the kind of days I've had so far, I don't suppose I can be too upset about it if it isn't better tomorrow.
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Buon Anni to one and all!
Happy New Year from Perugia! It's been many a year since I have stayed awake to welcome the new year at midnight. I wasn't sure I was going to do so this year either because I thought all of the other hostelers were going to go into the city (the hostel is located several miles outside of Perugia). The last bus back from the city was around 10pm so if you went to town, you were there until the morning busses started up again or you paid the huge taxi fare. Anyway, turns out there were a handful of us liking a more mellow ringing in (or had early trains the next morning) so we did a potluck dinner and snack spread, juggled a bit and played some ferocious foosball until the witching hour. The we bundled up and headed out to the back of the farmhouse. From there we had a view of the city lights and at the stroke of midnight witnessed a pretty spectacular fireworks display. The way we were situated above the city, we had an almost 180 degree view of city lights and fireworks were going off at every degree. The city sponsored a professional display but everyone else contributed their own version as well. I'm not sure how long it lasted. It went on for quite a while. Finally, there were just a few pops scattered about and we went back into the house. I faded shortly after that. I did wake sort of when the rest of the revelers came back in but have no idea what time that was and even though I'm in the mixed dorm situation, this time it didn't matter because the roommates were a) more repectful and b)speaking Italian so even if they weren't respectful, I didn't have to hear about there exploits! However, considering that they all slept soundly, I think they had as grand a time as I!
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